It has been exceedingly hectic here for most of the last
month. In my last email, I promised a report on my trip to Bad Wimpfen. I had
actually gotten back from there when I sent out the email on my prior week's
activities... but I've had almost no personal time during the week to write
anything. So, here goes.
I had been trying to work my way up the Neckar Valley from Heidelberg to Bad
Wimpfen for months. My last trip up the valley took me to Dilsberg and Sinshiem
(Sinsheim is a bit of a detour). On my trip to sterreich, I passed a sign for
Bad Wimpfen between here and Heilbron. I had to get off of my post by noon,
they were closing the gates due to a scheduled protest, and I wouldn't be able
to get back on post until 5 that evening. So I set out through a LARGE Poltizei
show of force, and went the back way out. I went the fast way to Bad Wimpfen,
and worked my way back down the valley from there. Unfortunately I managed to
get myself stuck in a stau just passed the A-5 interchange, and wound up
sitting in bumper-to-bumper traffic all the way to Sinsheim. It would appear
the cause was rubbernecking at the Sinshiem Transportation Museum. Go figure.
So, eventually I found my way into Bad Wimpfen. The modern town of Bad Wimpfen
was originally two smaller towns - Bad Wimpfen im tal, and Bad Wimpfen am berg
(Litterally the Baths of Wimpfen in the valley, and the Baths of Wimpfen on the
hill). The Neckar river winds its way past the north side of town. The way I
entered town, I wound up on the hill overlooking the Neckar, outside the old
town. On my way from where I parked, I stopped at a War Memorial to the fallen
soldiers of the town from both World Wars.
My first real glimpse of the altstadt was the back-side of a narrow angled
fachwerk haus, and a narrow street. Naturally, I took a picture, but then
followed my way to the rising tower and spires of the nearby church. The church
was closed until 3 that afternoon (it being just before 1), so I plotted to be
back that way after 3. The present-day Rathaus (Town Hall) had the crests of
each of the lands through which Bad Wimpfen had passed over the centuries (it
changed hands several times before winding up in Baden-Wrttemburg after World
War II). Across the square from the Rathaus was a Hexen-themed restaraunt (Witch-themed)
in a red and white fachwerk building. Down the street from there, I found what
turns out to be one of the classic shots in Bad Wimpfen - a black on white
fachwerk building in the middle of a fork-in-the-road, with street going up to
the left and a Tower in the background, and another street going down to the
right. In the foreground another fachwerk building with a classic wrought-iron
sign protruding. I took both pictures, and purchased a post-card sketch of it.
I quickly found myself winding out of the upper town and to the Bahnhof (train station)
situated between the two halves of town. Going back up into the upper town by a
back-way, I followed the old walls around, and into the heart of the real
old-town. Many of the towers and fortifications dated back to the 1200s. The
big tower in town, the Blue Tower, was originally built c. 1200. It was
substantially remodeled and expanded several times over the years. Originally,
it was at one end of town, but as Bad Wimpfen grew, it wound up in the middle
of town (the other towers stayed on the edge of town, as that edge was largely
a cliff that dropped off into the river). Turns out, located on the crown of
the hill, and being built as tall as it was, it tended to draw lightning
strikes. Several times in the history of the tower, it had great fires (1674,
1701, 1776, 1848, and 1984). The last great fire was photographed extensively.
There are some stunning pictures inside the tower (rebuilt to it's 1851
appearance) of the tower ablaze 19 years ago. Also inside is a rather warped
and broken bell that had been in the tower at the time of the last fire. It was
interesting to note the Sprinkler System pipe very prominently visible going up
the tower. Unlike many centuries old towers I've been up in Europe, this one
was very well lit, and had a relatively freshly finished interior - to be
expected when you realize the severity of the fire. From the top of the Blue
Tower, I had some excellent views of the surrounding town and
countryside.
A "quick" lunch of Maultaschen (I was in Swabia after all, I had to
have a typically Swabish dish), and I was back at the church in time to get a
brief tour of the inside. Unfortunately, it the interior didn't match with what
the exterior promised of it. Perhaps I've just seen too many beautifully
decorated church interiors - I know I've seen too many ornamented fountains (I
was almost burned out on them BEFORE I arrived in March). I made my way down to
Bad Wimpfen im tal, and got to visit the Abby Church there. It was a very
simple church, but very beautiful Stained Glass windows.
Down the valley, I passed in and out of rain. I spotted a very scenic castle a
little upstream from Hirschhorn - I'll have to go back and tour it soon. It's
about the only thing left between Heidelberg and Heilbronn on the Neckar river
that I've not seen in detail yet. I returned to my post to find that the
"protest" had wound up being less than 30 people. Oh well.
The following weekend, I decided not to go far - I intended to go to
Heidelberg, and get some good coverage with my digital camera (something I'd
not done since I had gotten the camera). Upon arrival in Heidelberg, I
discovered a large Politzei show of force. Putting two and two together, I
decided wandering into a protest was NOT a good choice for the day, so I went
across the river and up the mountain opposite the Heidelberg Castle and
Altstadt.
I parked a little bit down from the top of the mountain, and hiked the
remainder of the way. I had been up in the summer, and taken a few pictures
from a tower with a scenic view of downtown Heidelberg and the Castle. The
tower itself is just about all that's left of a 1090 St. Stephen's
Monastery. The foundation of the sanctuary and surrounding rooms are
still visible. From the base of the tower (and even better from the top of the
tower) is a spectacular view of the Altstadt.
Along the ridge extending behind the tower away from Heidelberg I discovered
historical markers for an ancient Celtic fortification, an old Nazi Party
amphitheater, and the ruins of the Cloister of St. Michael - all
contained within the perimeter of the Celtic walls. The St. Michael's Cloister
was originally a worship-site dating back to 1000BC, with periods as a Roman
Temple and an early Christian Church. Located on the very top of the mountain,
there is an impressive view of the Rhine-Neckar valley from the top of one of
the partially restored bell towers. Little remains of the cloister but the
foundation, some stairs that lead to nowhere, the old crypt, and the bases of
the bell towers.
I returned to downtown Heidelberg that evening, and took some autumn photos in
and around the Altstadt. It has been a crisp, cool autumn here. Unfortunately,
as far as the foliage is concerned, it went almost overnight. One day it seemed
the trees were a summer green, the next they were autumn shades, and the next
they were bare. I'm sure it wasn't that fast, but with sunrise occurring about
the time I have to be at work or later, and sunset occurring about the time I
leave work, I don't really get to see daylight except on the weekends. My
weekend in Heidelberg and nearby was one of the few weekends with good autumn
colors on the trees.
November was a seemingly short month, two 4-day weekends and a week long class
kept me out and about and busy. Just before the first 4-day weekend (Veteran's
Day weekend) we had our first snow in the air for the season. I took the first
day off to recover from the hecticness I had been through, and even started
writing this email. I didn't finish. The next day, I drove up to Koblenz, and
visited a scenic, historic castle on the Rhine. Following that, I worked my way
upstream, and stopped at a couple more castles and walled towns. The day was
far too short, and sunset cut me off for the day. I had been in and out of snow
dusting on the ground all day, but I never got a chance to stop in any. There's
just something special about seeing a frosty, snowy, sleepy town in Germany. It
reminded me that the Christmas Markets were rapidly approaching.
The itch for me to see snow had gotten to me, so on Saturday I drove south for
the mountains. I went up into the Hochschwartzwald Strasse (High Black Forest
Road). It was foggy and dreary for much of the trip south, but I did get a few
good pictures after I cleared the Autobahn and started heading up into the
mountains. The contrast between the autumn colors, the evergreens, and the
sparse patches of snow was too impressive to ignore, so I actually pulled off
to the side of the road and snapped a few pictures from the side of the
mountain. Further up, the snow increased, until actually on the scenic road it
was the depths of winter with several inches of snow on the trees and the
ground. Whole walls of snow-covered pine trees and Black Forest houses made for
some beautiful pictures. It was actively snowing and foggy for much of the trip
along the road, though it occasionally cleared up enough after clearing some
peaks. I continued south along the road, eventually running back out of the
snow and into the valley. After some touring in sunlight and fall, I
returned to the road and retraced my steps back north, and re-experienced the
hour-long transition from Fall to Winter on the climb. It was sunset on my way
back down the mountain, and I returned home well after dark.
In the week or two leading up to Thanksgiving it was cold and either snowing or
a mix coming out of the fog. I was on the road to Landstuhl all week in the
full week before Thanksgiving, and trying to recover thereafter. We had a
farewell for a member of my Church Choir on the Friday before Thanksgiving,
that ran late into the night.
Thanksgiving arrived almost suddenly... I knew it was coming, but was so busy
in the lead-up that it almost caught me by surprise. My Church did a
Thanksgiving Dinner in Heidelberg, and I participated. As is requisite of the
holiday, I ate too much. There was plenty of good food in many varieties. I ate
so much that I was in physical pain for most of the rest of Thanksgiving Day,
and well into Friday. That made it difficult to enjoy the Weihnachts Markets
that began that week - something I will detail in an upcoming message. Advent
is upon us, and that deserves it's own covering. I apologize for the long time
since my last email, and the size of this one (and the Landstuhl one). I have
an overnight shift next week, so I should be able to do my Advent piece sooner
rather than later.
Charles.