7 October 2004
I must have skipped class the day they handed out touring
partners. For the umpteenth week in a row, the people who said they would go
touring with me never showed. The associated confusion and attempts at
connections resulted in a VERY late start.
So, alone and late, I set off for Bamberg. From Mannheim, I took A-6 to
Heilbronn. From there I took A-81 north. I had been south on A-81 to Stuttgart,
but never north. To my surprise A-81 between Heilbronn and Wrtzburg was almost
empty, and entirely without speed-limits (though for the first time in my time
traveling the Autobahns, I saw the white-on-blue 120km recommended speed limit.
I will say that I was neither the Slowest on the road, nor the Fastest that
afternoon.
On arrival in Bamberg, I followed my signs for the Altstadt Parkhaus (Old Town
Parking Garage). After squeezing in, I emerged to find my way around the city.
Almost immediately next to the garage was the famous "Altes Rathaus"
(Old Town Hall) built in the middle of the river.This is perhaps the most
famous sight in Bamberg. It is built with a yellow-on-white fachwerk on the
upstream portion, supported by wooden trusses above the ship-like stone
"bow." Two spans bridge from a carved stone archway and tower to both
opposing banks. The back part of the building is actually the main part. The
walls are painted in a baroque style - with a unique touch: some figures in the
painting actually are sculptures jutting out from the wall. Most notably, the
leg of a cherub near the bottom in the middle of the "port" side. If
you don't know to look for it, you'd almost miss it. Unfortunately for the
timing of my visit, much of the Rathaus was being rennovated, so it resulted in
less than stellar pictures.
Just downstream from the Rathaus, I got an incredible picture of the
Michaelsberg Abbey up on a hill over looking the city, framed by the skyline of
the Altstadt and a modern-art sculpture of a broken mask. A classic
juxtaposition of old and new, near and far. There is a low bridge that crosses
at the extreme downstream end of the Rathaus. I took this bridge across and
headed for the Domplatz (Cathedral Square). For those that don't know, in most
European cities and towns, the Dom Platz (if they have a Cathedral) or Church
Square was the center of town.
Winding through the streets of the Altstadt, I stopped at a souvenir shop. I
picked out a Bamberg Shot Glasses (I've been touring Europe collecting Shot
Glasses, though I don't have one of Mannheim yet for some reason). There were
all the typical Bavarian trinkets I've seen at Rothenburg, Nrnberg, et. al.
There was also a local specialty I had been told to look out for. From the
Mrzen Brauerei, a Rauchbier (A smoked beer).
I climbed the hillside to the Domplatz, finding it a very striking scene. Most
times the Domplatz of a city is very colorful, busy square. This one is very
different. When I got there, it was completely empty. The Dom is a very
imposing, 4-spired Cathedral, oriented East/West. To the north, is a great open
plaza, with two variations of historic residences covering the remaining three
sides. The ancient cobblestone of the plaza seemed to be made of the same stone
as everything facing the square - leading to an almost monochromatic starkness.
Combined with the sun darting in and out from behind clouds, I got some very
imposing pictures of the square. Unfortunately, I had arrived just in time for
the Dom to close for a wedding, so I didn't get a chance to see the inside. I
guess it gives me an excuse to visit again sometime.
I left the Domplatz on the opposite corner from where I had entered, and wound
my way through more back streets, encountering some good Franconian culture and
dialects. Atop the neighboring hill, is the Michaelsberg Abbey. It has a
dramatic view of the city below. I didn't stay long, I wanted to get to Coburg
before the day was out. I took the back way down from the Abbey, and stopped at
the river front across from "Little Venice" - a portion of town built
right on the riverside in a manner reminiscent of Venice.Italy.
Returning to my car, I explored a little more of the city by wheel. On the hill
above the city, just down from the Altenburg Castle, I found probably the best
view of the city - with the spires of both the Michaelsberg Abbey and the Dom
framing the typical Franconian skyline. After that, I had a heck of a time
finding my way out of the city to the Autobahn. Going north out of town towards
Coburg, I quickly found myself in a baustelle (Construction zone) that made the
40km trip into a grueling hour-long trip.
In Coburg I was searching for only one thing: A Coburger Bratwurst. When I
visited Coburg in the 80's, my parent's introduced me to the Coburger
Bratwurst. It's a variation of the Thringer Bratwurst - a foot-long bratwurst
that is the specialty of the Thringen region, a bit to the north of Franconia.
What makes these Bratwurst special, is that they are grilled over pine cones.
This gives them a unique and special flavor.
I parked at the Post Parkhaus (Post Office Parking Garage) and went out by foot
to find my pray. It proved to be quite elusive. I had to criss-cross the
downtown area several times before I picked up the trail. First stop was a
Music Fest with some ubiquitous beer and bratwurst stands. No luck. Off
again... I passed through the archway of a medieval tower into the pedestrian
zone of downtown. Winding my way down the street, I caught a whiff on the
breeze. Burning Wood. Burning Pine to be precise. I knew I had found the trail
- I would just have to follow my nose. A dozen or so meters farther along, I
spotted the familiar sight of the buildings on the main square. During my last
visit, a bird managed to bomb me squarely on my right shoulder as it flew off
the top of a red-on-white painted carved stone building on the main square.
Looking a little beyond this building, I could see smoke rising from a
street-vendor hut. Success! Zeroing in, it was unmistakable. For the first time
in over 15 years, I had myself a Coburger Bratwurst. Most of you can probably
recall my desire to occasionally grill over Pine Cones. This was the
inspiration for me to do that.
It would have been nice to have time to see the sites, but sunset was upon me,
and I had many hours of driving to return home to Mannheim. I went over Nrnberg
for the return trip, which meant I did not hit A81 going back, but I avoided
the major Stau on A-3 that I would have dealt with had I gone a more direct
route home. I got in late that night, and managed to oversleep on Sunday (and was
thus late for Church).
This was my third trip into Franconia since I got to Mannheim last March. My
first trip, was to Rothenburg ob der Tauber - the famous Medieval Walled City.
That was my first weekend with my new camera in July. Nrnberg was my second
trip in August. Now, with Bamberg and surrounding countryside, I can definitely
appreciate the Franconian style, as compared to the Kurpfaltz (where I live
now). For those that are interested, I can send you some pictures, and give you
some more in-depth architectural descriptions, but I won't bore the whole list
with the details.
And that's the news in Lake Woebegone... um, no wait.... let me try that
again...
So, that's the weekend that was. In the morning, I'm departing for a 4-day
weekend in Austria and Switzerland. I also plan to make stops in Liechtenstein
and Italy. My camera should get a really good workout over these next few days.
(I'm at about 2300 pictures, and rapidly climbing).
Charles.